On Wednesday much of the world will pause to remember the Tiananmen Square tragedy—or massacre—depending on one’s
perspective. It occurred 25 years ago June 4, 1989 in the world’s largest
square with much of the world watching. It was among the more horrific and
heartrending stories I covered during my career as a Chicago Tribune foreign
correspondent.
The post that follows contains my
recollections of that terrible event—one that is indelibly etched into my
memory. It is a little longer than most of my posts, but that night in Tiananmen
Square was also one of the longest I ever spent. I hope you will read on....
China
was the world’s biggest story in the summer of 1989 when several hundred
thousand students, labor leaders and other dissidents occupied the 5 million
square foot concrete piazza known as Tiananmen Square in the heart of Beijing.
For seven weeks as the world watched, some 500,000 “pro-democracy” demonstrators
descended on Beijing’s most sacred site to protest corruption, human rights
violations and one-party rule.
The
protest would ultimately end in the early morning hours of June 4 with the
deaths of at least 800 demonstrators (the Chinese Red Cross puts the number
closer to 3,000 with 12,000 wounded) in what the world has come to know as the
“Tiananmen Square Massacre.”
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Demonstrators in Tiananmen Before the Massacre |
Today
all evidence of that bloody night has been obliterated. Tiananmen Square is
scrubbed and shimmering as it awaits the hundreds of thousands of summer visitors
who will wander past the colossal portrait of Mao Zedong that hangs above the Forbidden
City's Gate of Heavenly Peace on the north end of the plaza and through the mausoleum
that displays his waxy remains on the south end.
China
today is relatively sanguine and confident. Profits, not protests are the
driving force among most Chinese. However, that was not the case in 1989 when Tiananmen
Square was turned into a squalid, fetid tent city of protestors.
For
many young Chinese, the tragedy that unfolded in Tiananmen Square 25 years ago
is ancient history—an event that has been glossed over, covered up and
generally purged from the national consciousness by a nation eager to put forth
its most dazzling and alluring face for tourists and the international business
community.
But
on June 3, 1989 as I walked through what is generally regarded as the planet’s
largest city square, the world was just a few hours from seeing China at its most
ruthless and ugliest.
The
square that day was a hot, grubby place, strewn with refuse, canvass tents and
other makeshift dwellings. Under the towering “Heroes of the Nation” obelisk demonstrators cooked rice and soup while
others linked arms and sang a spirited rendition of the “Internationale,” the
world socialist anthem. Thousands of others dozed under flimsy lean-tos or blasted
music from boom boxes.
Near
the middle of the square, the 30-foot tall “Goddess
of Democracy,” a pasty white statue constructed by art students and made of
styrofoam and papier-mâché, stared defiantly at Mao’s
giant portrait—almost mocking the founder of modern day China. A truck swept by
periodically spraying billowing clouds of insecticide and disinfectant over
everything and everybody in its path.
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Goddess of Democracy Statue |
Hawkers
guiding pushcarts containing ice cream, soft drinks, rice cakes, candy and film
encircled the students doing a brisk business. Even if the students in the
square had not been able to topple China's ruling hierarchy, at least there
were profits to be made.
One
enterprising entrepreneur raked in several hundred yuan within a few minutes
after he began renting stepping stools for the hundreds of amateur
photographers and tourists who arrived to have their pictures taken next to
students or standing at the base of the "Goddess
of Democracy" statue. Tiananmen, I wrote at the time, had evolved into
a “Disneyland of Dissent.”
By
June 3 the number of students occupying the square had dwindled to about 20,000
as thousands had already packed up and headed back to their provinces. But some
students I talked with that afternoon were not ready to leave and a few shared an
intense sense of foreboding.
One
of those was Chai
Ling. Chai,
who had been elected "chief commander" by the dissidents, was the
only woman among the seven student leaders of the pro-democracy protests. As we
sat cross-legged on the hot pavement she talked about the protests and just
what the students had accomplished during their 7-week-long occupation of
Tiananmen.
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Chai Ling in Tiananmen Speaking to Students 1989 |
“There
will be a price to pay for all of this,” the 23-year-old child psychology
graduate warned, tears streaming down her cheeks. “Some people will have to die
for democracy, but it will be worth it.”
Chai,
the object of a year-long nationwide search by the Chinese government after the
violence in the square, would eventually escape China to Hong Kong sealed for
five days and nights in a wooden crate deep in the hold of a rickety ship.
She managed to elude capture in China by adopting a series of disguises, by
learning local Chinese dialects and by working variously as a rice farmer,
laborer and maid. Eventually she would come to the United States, be nominated
for the Nobel Peace Prize and graduate from the Harvard Business School.
Barely
eight hours after my conversation with Chai her warning would become reality. Late
in the evening of June 3 and during the early morning hours of June 4 the lethargy
of weary demonstrators and the cacophony of boom box music would be replaced by
shrieks of terror, gunfire and the guttural roar of tank and armored personnel
carrier engines as the People’s Liberation Army rolled into the square, crushing
tents and firing indiscriminately at protesters and anybody else who got in
their way.
A
couple of hours before the violence erupted a few of us foreign correspondents
had enjoyed a quiet meal together in the venerable Beijing Hotel on Chang’an
Avenue a few blocks from the square.
While
dining we discussed the events of the night before when several thousand young unarmed
military recruits were sent marching toward the students in Tiananmen Square.
Before they got very far an estimated 100,000 Chinese civilians poured from
their homes near the square and confronted the soldiers—berating them for even
thinking of entering Tiananmen to clear it of the thousands of students who had
occupied it since late April.
This
rather benign event was nothing more than a probe to determine what kind of
resistance armed troops might face when they stormed the square. For several
weeks some 200,000 Chinese troops—most from provinces far away from Beijing—had
been massing on the outskirts of the city.
As
Beijing entered its 15th day of martial law, it was also obvious that the
government was still unable to enforce that decree. The government did admonish
members of the foreign media to "observe regulations on news
coverage" as they relate to martial law.
"Foreign
journalists must not talk with student protesters and any news coverage of any
kind in Beijing must receive prior approval," said a statement by Ding
Weijun, spokesman for the city.
The
statement also warned the hundreds of foreign reporters still in Beijing
against inviting Chinese citizens to their offices, homes or hotels to conduct
"interviews regarding prohibited activities." Several foreign
reporters had been expelled from the country for violating those rules.
Many
of us ignored those edicts and talked to anybody who wanted to talk anywhere
that was deemed away from the prying eyes and ears of government authorities. I
also ignored the curfew, often riding my red and white Sprick bicycle down dark streets from my hotel to the Tribune's
offices that were located in a foreign housing compound a half-mile away. I got
to know most of the Chinese police who were supposed to enforce the curfew.
They would smile and wave as I peddled past.
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Aboard my Sprick Bicycle |
The
morning of June 3, once again ignoring marital law rules, I took the Tribune
car and my nervous Chinese driver and we drove outside of the square and into
several neighborhoods where streets leading toward Tiananmen had been shut down
by angry civilians intent on keeping the Chinese Army from reaching the
students. Dozens of intersections were blocked with buses, trucks, and
makeshift barricades. Neighborhood leaders proudly showed me their arsenal of weapons—rows
of gasoline-filled bottles complete with cloth wicks, piles of rocks and
bricks, shovels, rakes, picks and other garden tools.
“We
will protect the students,” a man named Liang Hong,
told me.
“But
how?” I asked. “The army has tanks, machine guns and armored personnel
carriers. They will kill you.”
“Then
we will die,” he replied. Several dozen others quickly echoed his words. “Yes,
we will all die. These are our children in the square. We must help them even
if it means death.”
Several
days after the attack on the square when the authorities allowed people to
travel once again in the city, I drove back to this same neighborhood. True to
their word, I was told that Liang
Hong and several of his neighbors
had died or were wounded attempting to keep the army from entering the square.
After
dinner in the Beijing Hotel I decided to take one more stroll through the
square. As I rode into the square on the bicycle I had purchased after my
arrival in Beijing from Tokyo two weeks before, I could see that many of the
students were obviously spooked—not only by the unarmed incursion of the night
before but by the intelligence pouring in from the neighborhoods surrounding
the square that the army was on the move.
“I
think something will happen tonight,” one of them told me. “I am very afraid.”
I
stopped at the foot of the Goddess of Democracy. The statue was illuminated by
a couple of small spotlights as it looked toward the Forbidden City and Mao’s portrait. On the edge of the square I bought a
bottle of Coca Cola then pushed my bicycle toward the four-story KFC restaurant
on the south end of the square. It was about 8:30 p.m. and the restaurant (the
largest KFC store in the world) was almost empty.
I
then rode the 2 miles down Jinguomenwei Avenue to the Jinguo Hotel where I was
staying. I needed to file a story on the day’s events—specifically my
conversation with Chai
Ling and the other students that
afternoon. I finished writing my story around 10 p.m. and decided, despite the
curfew, to ride my bicycle back to the square for one more look around. I
parked my bicycle on Xuanwumen Dong Avenue near the hulking Museum of History
and Revolution on the east side of the square and began walking toward the “Heroes of the Nation” obelisk which had
become the headquarters for the students.
I
hadn’t gotten very far when the sound of gunfire erupted. The firing seemed
everywhere, amplified by the massive buildings that surrounded the square. I
ran toward my bicycle, not wanting to be trapped in the square should tanks
roll in. Moments later I ran into BBC correspondent Kate Adie
who was walking toward the square with her camera crew.
“What’s
going on,” she asked.
“Looks
like the army is making a move tonight,” I answered. I explained that I hadn’t
seen any troops or tanks in the square at that point, but I did see muzzle
flashes from the roof of the Great Hall of the People on the west side of the
square. A day before several hundred troops had massed behind the Great Hall
and I assumed they had been positioned on the roof.
I rode
my bicycle north toward Chang’an Avenue and hadn’t gotten very far when I
noticed a line of Armored Personnel Carriers moving toward the square flanked
by hundreds of soldiers with fixed bayonets. Seconds later the dark sky was
interlaced by red and yellow tracer fire and I could hear bullets ricocheting
off of concrete. I turned my bike around and raced back toward the south end of
the square. Like a lot of my fellow correspondents I never thought the
government would use deadly force against the students.
As
the firing intensified thousands more residents poured out of their houses and
formed human blockades where streets entered the square. They quickly became
targets for the machine gun and small arms fire. As the casualties mounted, the
crowds became increasingly belligerent. They armed themselves with bricks,
bottles, iron rods and wooden clubs and attacked some of the military
contingents, including tanks.
An
infuriated mob grabbed one soldier and set him afire after dousing him with
gasoline. They then hung his still smoldering body from a pedestrian overpass.
It was one of the many examples of instant justice meted out that night. The
crowd accused the soldier of having shot an old woman to death.
I
watched the wounded and the dead being carted from the square and the area
surrounding it on the flatbeds of three-wheeled vehicles. The stinging stench
of tear gas hovered over the embattled city and burned my eyes.
|
Carting the Wounded out of the Square |
“Tell
the world!” the crowds screamed at me and other foreign journalists they saw. “Tell
the United States! Tell the truth! We are students! We are common people-unarmed,
and they are killing us!”
Around
2 a.m. at the height of the armed assault, a maverick tank careened down
Jianguomenwai Avenue in an attempt to crack open the way for troop convoys
unable to pass through the milling crowds.
With
its turret closed, the tank was bombarded with stones and bottles as it sped
down the avenue. Young cyclists headed it off, then slowed to bring it to a
halt. But the tank raced on, the cyclists deftly avoiding its clattering treads
by mere inches.
On
the Jianguomenwai bridge over the city's main ring road, where a 25-truck
convoy had been marooned for hours by a mass of angry civilians clambering all
over it, a tank raced through the crowd. It sideswiped one of the army trucks,
and a young soldier clinging to its side was flung off and killed instantly.
The
worst fighting of the night occurred around the Minzu Hotel, west of the
square, where grim-faced troops opened fire with tracer rounds on milling
crowds blocking their access to the square. Bullets ripped into the crowd and
scores of people were wounded. The dead and wounded were thrown on the side of
the road among a pile of abandoned bicycles as the troops moved on to take the
square.
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Dead and Wounded Amid Abandoned Bicycles |
One
tank ran into the back of another that had stalled on Chang’an Avenue. As they
hurriedly bounced apart, the machine guns on their turrets began to train on an
approaching crowd of about 10,000. The machine guns erupted, sending tracers
above the heads of the crowd. Men and women scurried for cover, many crawling
into the piles of dead and wounded along the side of the road.
In
my haste to return to the square I had forgotten to bring my camera. Even
though it was night, the square was illuminated by street lamps and the sky
above it was lit almost continuously with tracers and bright flares. I decided
not to ride my bicycle in order to avoid becoming a larger target. At the same
time, I didn’t want to lose the only form of transportation I had, so I pushed
it wherever I went, sometimes crouching behind it. Finally, I found a small
tree and padlocked it to the trunk.
For
most of the night I found myself caught between trying to cover the tragedy
unfolding in and around the square and watching my back. I didn’t want to be
caught in the sites of some trigger happy soldier.
At
one point several hundred troops successfully occupied a corner of the square
and I watched as a crowd of some 3,000 howling unarmed students surged toward
them on foot and by bicycle, intent on breaking through their line with their bare
hands. A few in front of the main body rammed their bikes into the troops and
were quickly beaten to the ground by soldiers using the butts of their rifles
or clubs.
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Dead Demonstrators Piled in a Hospital Hallway |
“Fascists!
Murderers!” the crowd chanted.
As
the main body of the crowd got within 50 yards of the first line of troops, an
army commander blew a whistle and the soldiers turned and fired volleys of
automatic rifle fire. Screams of pain followed.
The
protesters threw themselves and their bikes on the pavement of the Avenue of
Eternal Peace. Dragging their bikes behind them, they crawled to safety, pursued
by rifle fire and the throaty war cries of the soldiers.
When
the firing momentarily stopped, the crowd regrouped and slowly crept back
toward the square. Then the volleys rang out again, more intense this time. Two
lines of soldiers began to chase the mob, alternately firing tear gas and
bullets. I watched several people stagger and fall to the ground.
The
acrid smell of tear gas triggered a paroxysm of coughing in the crowd. People
ripped off shirt sleeves and used them as handkerchiefs over their mouths. The
bodies of three women were laid out on the pavement of a side street to await
transport. A crowd gathered around them, waving fists and cursing the
government.
“How
many people did you kill?” they shouted at steel-helmeted soldiers who stood
stonily with AK-47 assault rifles cradled across their chests.
The
fighting continued throughout the night as exhausted students and other
dissidents engaged in hit and run battles with soldiers, tanks and APC’s. Some
students, many of them wounded, scrambled aboard abandoned buses seeking refuge
and aid. I watched soldiers pull them out and beat them with heavy clubs.
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Students Confront APC's in the Square |
Several
of the students, bleeding from head wounds, ran toward where I had taken cover
behind a low stone wall. One of the students, a girl of maybe 16, had been shot
through the shoulder and was bleeding profusely. She was falling in and out of
consciousness and looked to be in shock. I looked behind me to see if there was
some way to get her assistance.
In
the distance I saw a man waving at me from a doorway of a brick wall. He was
motioning me to bring the girl and other wounded students to him, all the while
carefully watching for soldiers. I pulled her up and with the help of another
reporter, dashed with her and several other wounded students to the gate. The
man quickly wrapped a blanket around the girl and took her inside the compound
with the other students.
“Thank
you,” he said. “I am a doctor. I will take care of them.”
I
jogged back to the low wall where I had been kneeling before. I recall thinking
that if I were wounded at least I now knew where I could go for help. For the
next few hours I moved from one location to another, trying to find a spot
where I could see what was happening while making sure I had an escape route
should I come under fire.
The
square was finally cleared at dawn when four personnel carriers raced across
it, flattening not only the tents of the demonstrators but the “Goddess of Liberty” statue. I looked at
my watch. It was about 5:30 and dawn was breaking over the city.
Ten
minutes later a negotiated settlement allowed the hard-core remnants of the
democracy movement—some 5,000 students and their supporters—to leave by the
southeastern corner of the square. As they left singing the Internationale, troops ritually
beat them with wooden clubs and metal rods.
The army had been ordered to clear the Square
by 6 a.m and it had done so, but at a terrible cost.
As
daylight broke over the Avenue of Eternal Peace dazed knots of Chinese, many of
them weeping and all of them angry at their government, stood at intersections,
reliving the events of a few hours before when tracer bullets and flares turned
the black Beijing sky into a deadly torrent of crimson.
Along
the roadside leading into the square lay several wounded, some perhaps already
dead.
“They
murdered the people. . . . They just shot the people down like dogs, with no
warning,” said a man whose shirt was soaked with blood. “I carried a woman to
an ambulance, but I think she was dead.”
“Please,”
he said, “you must tell the world what has happened here. We need your
protection from our government.”
Perhaps
the defining moment of the massacre came a bit later that morning when a
student jumped in front of a column of tanks on Chang’an Avenue and refused to
move. This student, as yet still unidentified, shouted at the tank commander:
"Get out of my city. … You're not wanted here." Each time the tank
would attempt to maneuver around the student, he would jump in front of it. The
column of tanks turned off their motors and then several other students ran out
and pulled the student to safety. To this day nobody is sure who the student
was or what happened to him. Most Chinese still refer to him as the “tank man.”
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The Still Unidentified "Tank Man" Confronting Tanks |
I
walked back to where I had left my bicycle and rode to the Jianguo Hotel. As I
peddled along mostly deserted streets I tried to make sense out of what I had
seen. With the students already dispersing from the square or planning to, the
attack by the army was unnecessarily brutal.
There
was little doubt that what I had witnessed was an assault designed to punish
the demonstrators for embarrassing China’s leadership—Premiere Li Peng and Deng Xiaoping,
the ailing leader of China’s Communist Party.
China's
hard-line rulers, clearly in control after the bloodbath, issued a statement
that morning that said:
“Thugs frenziedly attacked People's
Liberation Army troops, seizing weapons, erecting barricades and beating
soldiers and officers in an attempt to overthrow the government of the People's
Republic of China and socialism.”
China’s
leaders have not forgotten the pro-democracy demonstrations of 1989. Unnerved
by turbulence among Tibetans and always nervous about the possibility of human
rights protests in the heart of the capital, China barred live television
coverage from Tiananmen Square during the 2008 Beijing Olympics—just as it had
in 1989. It will probably do the same on the 25th anniversary of the slaughter.
However,
it remains to be seen whether or not such a ban will exorcise the ghosts of June
4, 1989 that still hang over Tiananmen Square. There is little doubt that time
has not healed the deep wounds inflicted on China’s people that terrible night
25 years ago.